DISCLAIMER: I don't know why those of us that try to aid someone else in modding their car have to do this-cover our butts, but I guess its a good idea. There are lots of stupid people out there I suppose that would do something, well...stupid, and hurt themselves by replicating the following advice. Then, because their parents are more than likely just as dumb as they are, will then try to hunt down the 'culprits' that got their boy/girl hurt. They'll end up back here of course and then I'll be facing an unwarranted lawsuit. So, here you go...
If you use my advice, guidance, etc., you more than likely are going to be doing so to increase the speed of your car. This poses several possible issues. For one, you could blow up your engine. I'm not there to guide you every step of the way, check your torque settings, etc. so something may not go back together correctly. That is your problem. You might get it up and running correctly and then figure every stoplight is your personal starting line race-tree and drag race on the street. You may lose control, kill the guy you're racing, some innocent person on the side of the road or in another vehicle, or yourself. That is something you will be responsible for. Modding a car like this is something you'll simply have to decide to do or not for yourself with all other risks assumed. If you do a mod, any mod, and you blow your engine, partake in street-races, get tickets, drive reckless, kill yourself or someone else, while doing any of the aforementioned and more, its on you!
Don't be stupid. Street-racing is for chumps. Go to the track where they have safety, and help in the event you crash and burn.
Now, let's move on. :)
The spray. On the juice. Laughing gas...they all mean the same thing, with the same thrill.
More than likely you're scared of it. You've heard some nitrous-user horror stories so you think you'll just play it safe and go turbo, or build a high-compression naturally aspirated setup. If you're going that route because you think it's safer, think again. You can blow your motor either of those ways too.
So, what's the real reason you're afraid to use it?
Most likely the reason you fear it is because your buddy put a 50hp shot on his ride, only to get his tail handed to him one Saturday night in a street race with a mustang. The next day, your buddy is putting in the jets for a 100hp shot, figuring he'll own the same guy that beat him next time they meet.
Sadly, the end came that next race just after hitting the button-your buddy grenaded his motor. 'Nitrous blew my motor!', he told you.
No. It wasn't nitrous that blew his motor. Your buddy blew his motor from being ignorant. However, if he knew better, he was not being ignorant but rather stupid.
With nitrous users, you'll find both kinds of people: those that are ignorant and those that are just plain stupid. Just like any other type of engine mod out there, if the person doing it doesn't know what they're doing they simply shouldn't be doing it. Problem is, these folks always blame the nitrous and vow never to mess with that crazy stuff again.
Unfortunately, the seed's been planted into your mind now as well.
Nitrous, just like any other mod, requires the fuel system, engine build, timing, etc. all be up to par with the horsepower numbers we're hoping to achieve. Adding horsepower via nitrous is just too darn easy. In as little as fifteen minutes or so, you can go from a nitrous setup that was jetted to provide an additional 50hp, to one that can now provide 250hp! That type of equal hp gains from a turbo or naturally aspirated setup isn't as easy.
That is a tempting thing to do when pride is involved, as is the case with most of us that race cars. We simply want to be faster than the next guy and sometimes the urge to do something stupid all in the hopes of regaining some respect overtakes our common sense. I hear tow truck drivers make great conversationalists. Be stupid with nitrous and you'll get to find out what the topic of the day is.
Nitrous has a bad rap, mostly from stupid people making stupid decisions. So, let me try to guide you a bit on nitrous, specifically to the s-series so you limit the chances of it happening to you from ignorance. What you do past that...well....that is stupidity.
Also, I'd rather not bore you with how, in WW2, the nazis first started using it to enhance the performance of their planes in combat, yada, yada.
I won't bore you with how 'this molecule' and 'that molecule' hold more oxygen when cold, etc. NOS and NX's, etc. websites have FAQ sections that cover all that.
I'm here for specific kit application for specific Saturn s-series engines. What I'll do instead is present this section to not only help with some overlooked items that can have you rebuilding sooner than you wanted, but also to help you know what system to put on your specific s-series, because there are lots to choose from.
So, here we go...
Let's first cover the different types of kits available and then we'll go over which type of kit your s-series is best suited for.
The terms 'dry' and 'wet'-when talking about nitrous kits we speaking simply to a classification of at what point the additional fuel required is injected during nitrous spray.
From that point, that is where the single dry fogger, single wet fogger, individual port fogger systems, etc. all come in to play.
Is fuel added with the nitrous through one single wet fogger setup before the throttle body, as in the case of a wet kit?
Or, is nitrous alone added before the throttle body, and then the required fuel for nitrous use added at some point later, as in the dry kit?
Or, is it done via several single wet foggers just before the injectors in the intake manifold as in an individual port system?
Obviously, this section deals with the dry kit and its use on the s-series. The following sections address the other types of kits and we'll go over those in a moment.
The typical dry kit comes with two nitrous solenoids, a tank, hoses, etc. and a single stem-type, 90 degree fogger nozzle, as well as with what looks like a vacuum block.
This block is used for interception, and augmentation, of the stock fuel pressure regulator signal (vacuum) during system activation.
Many other parts are included naturally, but these listed are the more pertinent parts.
You'll also receive a set of what's called 'jets' or 'pills', but unlike a wet kit, you will have only multiple sizes of jets for nitrous feed, yet only one 'jet' (if you can call it that), which goes in at the vacuum 'T' to control flow of vacuum.
These small brass pills are what dictates the amount of horsepower, to a great degree, that is added via nitrous.
Although you might think one solenoid would do, they actually include two, mainly for safety, in the event the first solenoid does not shut or leaks through.
With a dry kit, nitrous alone is sprayed before the throttle body into the intake piping.
After passing the throttle body, along with the air traveling with it, the nitrous/air mix is divided up into the individual cylinders via unregulated air flow paths through the intake manifold runners.
The combined air and nitrous are then joined by fuel being sprayed by the injector, just before the intake valves at the cylinder head.
The three-amigos as it were, are then ignited in the cylinder and, 'kaboom'...the spark lights it all off.
At the point of button push, the extra fuel addition is accomplished by the fuel pressure regulator being restricted. This jump in fuel pressure now means that the pulsewidth, or time of injector opening for flow of fuel, is not increased but rather the amount of fuel passing through the open hole is because of the increase in pressure.
Each firing of the injector will now spray more fuel per squirt due to the increased fuel pressure across the fuel rail.
The 'pros' of this kit is ease of installation and cost.
These kits for s-series can provide a 50hp jump (safe-for stock internals), but can also give 75hp as well (which has also been ran to great effect in s-series).
I've seen enough s-series use 75hp settings to know the computer can adjust timing out enough to protect the engine. Any more than that, and you'd best be looking for some sort of timing controller.
MSD offers one but the cost along with peripheral pieces you need to make them work with your coil packs, and you've got a lot of money tied up for just a bit more power over 50hp. Not worth it.
The 'cons' of these types of kits are that not only do you have to be wise in nozzle placement, you'll also have a problem with equal distribution of nitrous to each cylinder.
This is not as big a problem with the dry kit as opposed to the single wet fogger system, as the runners of your intake will do a better job of equal distribution of the nitrous fog than they will with fuel (wet kit), but still, distribution is not optimal meaning some cylinders will run lean, some rich.
When installing the nitrous fogger in a dry system on an s-series, or any other car for that matter, you’re best served to mount it as far away from the engine as possible.
At one time, a company named ZEX was offering a nozzle/filter combination in their kit which really made this a simple matter.
Instead of mounting the nozzle in a 90 degree configuration, the nozzle is mounted perpendicular with the intake piping in the front of the filter which provides for a straight shot spray. Outside of that, you’d want to insert the usual 90 degree dry nozzle sprayer just after the clamp of the filter.
The following picture is of my first nitrous install. It was a dry manifold kit and contrary to what I’m telling you now, you can see where I made the rookie mistake of placing the nozzle about 7" from the throttle body.
The above was done because of NOS’ own install instructions (instructions for a mustang no less…this is an important note for later…remember it) provided in the kit. NOS recommended at the time to place the nozzle 5-7” before the throttle body.
Here is a picture of the nozzle itself. It sprays 90 degrees once inserted into the piping. The first pic is of the nozzle and the two halves of the mouting nut and screw.
You'd simply bore a hole where you choose to place the nozzle, in the size of the fitting of course, and then use the two pieces to sandwich the intake tubing together. Then screw the nozzle into the fitting.
Of course, you'll have to pick a location that will allow you to gain access to the side of the nut inside the tubing.
This second pic is to give you a better idea of how it is mounted together. (note: you'd want to insert it on the opposite side of the fitting however)
Once installed, the other opposite end of the nozzle is where the 'jet' goes, with the steel-braided nitrous supply line closing it up inside.
The following is a picture of the 'vacuum regulator' that is used to pinch back the return of fuel as the system is engaged.
It does not use its own fuel solenoid to supply fuel like a 'wet' kit would, rather, it simply boosts fuel pressure under activation which allows the injectors to spray max fuel during use.
The port on top would go to the vacuum 'T' provided with a dry kit at the fpr. You would 'T' it into the signal going to the fuel pressure regulator.
As you can see by the above picture, the piece is simply a regulator.
The top screws down and adjusts the amount of restriction signal sent to the stock regulator. You want it fully screwed down=max fuel supply.
Okay, so why the need to place the nozzle so far away, and in doing so, be contrary to a company like NOS’ own instructions for a kit they themselves designed?
That’s what it boils down to. How quickly does the fuel pressure respond to, or in other words increase, to provide extra fuel for the nitrous being added?
There is enough of a delay that the engine goes dangerously lean the first few milli-seconds or so. Enough to pop your engine.
What I believe would be an optimum placement is at the filter end of a true cold-air intake kit, like the one from AEM. These 'true-cold air' intakes draw air in from outside the car. This long trek for the nitrous to use would be optimal to help offset the delay in fuel addition.
No matter, you want to install it as far away from the engine as possible in the intake stream.
This lean spot is the ‘achilles heal’ of the dry kit.
Now, I know a lot of people reading this will say, ‘I ran a dry kit for years with no problem’. I’ll respond with, ‘Good for you. Dodging bullets seems to agree with you.’
In the end, there is data that shows a clearly dangerously lean condition at initial tip-in spray with a dry kit. Using this type of kit with an admittedly brittle piston of the s-series, while ignoring this easy and beneficial advice, you'll continue to try your luck.
At some point, you'll roll snake eyes.
Another main drawback is distribution. Dry kits, like wet kits, rely on the engine's intake design to distribute evenly the nitrous (for dry kits) and nitrous and fuel (for single fogger wet kits). This can't be done 100%. One cylinder will always get more nitrous/gas while another cylinder gets less. The cylinders with more nitrous run leaner than those that have less. This is even worse with the wet kits which we'll delve into shortly.
One other drawback to the dry kit is it cannot be used on 1998 and later SC2’s and early model SC1’s due to limitations on intercepting, and then upping the fpr's signal for the '98 and later models, and with the TBI injection (basically an electronic carburetor), due to it being more or less a computer controlled wet carburetor much like you'd find on a '81 camaro, with too little fuel pressure to use for this system.
The ’98 and later SC2’s implemented a returnless-type fuel pressure regulator that doesn’t allow use of the vacuum block for fuel pressure increase (we’ll talk your options in a moment).
The fuel pressure regulator is integrally designed into the fuel filter at the back of the car, just before the fuel tank. I've never investigated making this system work so there may be some way around it, I'm not sure. I do know that reverting to the older fuel system, if you want to run dry nitrous kits that badly for those years, is an option.
The TBI injected cars are basically electronic carburetors and are best suited for the wet single fogger kits (more on this option as well coming up).
The fuel pressures used with the TBI injection is much less than the EFI of the other s-series models. The TBI pressures were 31-36psi. EFI pressures hit 38-42psi.
The TBI could be thought of as a ‘wet manifold’ engine, just like the old muscle cars as fuel is added at the throttle body and the very short intake manifold runners divide up the the fuel to each cylinder evenly.
Fuel and air both are transported down through the intake runners to the cylinders as opposed to the air/nitrous combo being transported to the cylinders of the dry manifold system.
Most of the wet kits come with two solenoids, one for fuel and the other for nitrous. Sometimes, some kits will have another solenoid but it is used for safety only.
They also have a single fogger that gets fed from each of these solenoids.
Here is a pic of two such fogger nozzles. Note the two orifices at the tip, one adds fuel, the other nitrous. Note the 'pill's or jets also. They control how much horsepower is allowed.
For those that do not know, the single fogger wet manifold type kit utilizes a single fogger nozzle that sprays BOTH nitrous and the extra fuel that the nitrous needs, at the same time. It does not rely on the fuel pressure regulator to up fuel pressure like the dry kit above does.
Like the dry kit, there is an extra set of fuel jets that you use that coincide with the nitrous jets. There will be a chart for you to reference in the kit, most times, that lets you know which jets to use. These jets are installed into the end of fogger nozzle at the steel braided line connections.
What is true of dry kits during installation is exactly the opposite with wet kits.
With wet kit installations, you're going to want to install the nozzle as close to the engine as possible.
The further you place the fogger away with the wet system, the worse the situation is for fuel puddling, and falling out of a vapor becomes (explanation in a moment).
An optimum location would be in the intake tubing immediately (an inch or so) before the throttle body lip itself.
Yes, that close.
The fuel with nitrous will make its way through the throttle body, down the runners of the intake manifold, and join with the vehicle's 'non-nitrous' fuel flow needs coming from the fuel injectors.
During spraying, the fogger nozzle does its best to atomize or 'fog' the fuel into a fine mist.
At that same time, it is mixed with the nitrous that sprays out of its own machined port just a hair's distance from the fuel hole on the fogger.
This 'fog' of nitrous and fuel mixes immediately together and both then start the journey from their spray point into the engine.
By mounting the nozzle as close to engine entry as possible on wet kit systems, you insure that the fuel mixture stays as atomized as possible, for as long as possible, as it makes its way to the combustion chamber.
Therein lies the problem with using wet fogger systems on dry manifold cars.
Concerning the s-series, as late as 1994, the s-series used TBI (throttle body injection) on the sohc engines. These engines operated a lot like old carbureted engines with very short intake manifold runners, in that fuel was added with the air at the air entry point (carb/tbi throttle body).
Since the TBI is nothing more than an electronic carburetor like the engine systems of old, they relied on relatively short intake manifolds to keep the fuel in suspension (fog) so that it made its way to the cylinder easily. Thus they were called wet manifold systems.
On 1995 and later s-series sohc, and 1991 on up to 2002 s-series dohc, they used engines with dry manifold setups where the fuel was not added until after the intake manifold.
The reason manufacturers went to this long runner design was to help with better low to mid-range torque numbers.
The runner is the 'tube' that travels from the plenum (the common joining point for all the cylinder's manifold tubes) where the throttle body mounts to, to the engine's cylinder head. Our cars are four cylinders, thus they have four intake runners, each more or less a different length.
Here is a pic of a ZEX kit I have laying around.
These kits proposed to make it easier to install for both wet and dry systems by making it as 'plug and play' as possible.
The solenoids are inside the box. The wires sticking out supply voltage for operation.
Below, a closeup of the spray nozzle for the ZEX kit and jet.
ZEX's claim to fame was that the nitrous and fuel mix 'together' inside the nozzle before exiting the tip as opposed to NOS' nozzle that had two separate orifices at the end where the two came together.
ZEX claimed better mixing of the nitrous/fuel mixture earlier this way. I'm not sure.
By definition, a 'dry manifold' flows only air. It was never designed to flow fuel.
The reason for this, and the issue that comes up with our cars, is that most dry manifold MODERN engines tend to have relatively long intake manifold runners that have several curving points of the runners for the fuel in these wet kits to overcome.
In the case of a wet fogger setup, the air with nitrous and fuel must make this long trek together from the spray point down to the cylinder's opening (intake valve).
When sprayed, the fuel is atomized and pretty much starts its journey in a fine mist spray. As it enters the engine and starts to make the turn down the runners towards the cylinders, this mist is 'licking', bumping, hitting and touching the inner walls of the intake runners.
As it does this, some of the fuel falls out of a mist and begins to wet down or puddle on the walls.
Remember when I said that nitrous addition makes fuel addition mandatory to avoid a blown engine? Well, puddling of the fuel on the intake walls, and not making its way to the cylinder with the nitrous, will cause a lean condition in one or more cylinders.
This also increases the chances of an intake backfire or explosion (more on this later).
It gets even better.
Distribution problems again comes into play as with the dry manifold kits, but more seriously now, as the ONLY fuel being added at time of nitrous spray is being left behind on the walls of the intake manifold to some degree.
So, if it misses the mark here, there is no saving point later with fuel addition. The cylinder will simply run lean.
Also, the recommendation concerning dry manifolds and fogger placement doesn't apply here, since the further you get away with the wet fogger setup, the worse the situation for puddling and falling out of a vapor becomes.
Is there a place for a wet fogger systems on a Saturn?
My suggestion to you, the enthusiast, is to only use the wet type, single fogger nitrous system on...
Yep, thats it.
No other place should you want to use the single fogger wet kits in the S-series engines. See below for an added bit of 'danger' concerning single fogger, wet type systems on S-series.
FINAL NOTE ON USEAGE FOR DRY AND WET SINGLE FOGGER KITS
I told you above that you could use a dry kit on an S-series but only on specific years and engines.
As mentioned above, 1998 year vehicles started to use a fuel pressure regulator and filter combination which made running a single fogger dry kit obsolete.
It got worse for 2000-2002 year model S-series.
That was when Saturn thought it would be a swell idea to change the aluminum intake manifold to a plastic intake manifold, and a vertically mounted throttle body (opening face up instead of horizontally).
This type manifold design is perhaps the most dangerous of all to use a single wet fogger system on.
The severe issue here with wet single fogger nitrous use for 2000-2002 is that fuel, as it falls out of the vapor, accumulates and pools in the lower curvature of the manifold as it recovers from its downward draw and starts back up the climb to the cylinder head.
Once enough fuel is there, those vapors will feed along with the air coming into the engine.
Like a fuse being lit from a safe distance away to the opening of the coal mine, the vapors will ignite and a SMALL BOMB goes off in the manifold and blows the plastic manifold apart. I've seen this happen at least twice (on friend's cars)
Although explosions (or nitrous backfires) happen with the aluminum intakes as well, obviously, aluminum is stronger than plastic and most aluminum pieces survive the event. The plastic ones? Not so much so.
This has happened several times to individuals with these motors that made the poor, uninformed choice to run a single fogger, wet nitrous kit on their cars.
So, in summation, dry and wet kit guidelines follow:
The early model SC1's that utilized the TBI setup SHOULD use the single wet fogger kit.
That system was designed to flow fuel through the intake and the fuel pressures are adequate for using the horsepower pills from most nitrous kit manufacturers.
The questions now are:
One, now that you've been educated and you use the incorrect system and blow up your engine, does that make you stupid, or ignorant?
And two, what is this individual port kit I keep talking about?
Answers: 1) Stupid.
2) Read on...
Ah yes, the safest kit of them all.
This kit functions exactly like the single wet manifold kit above, but rather than using one fogger nozzle mounted before the throttle body in the air intake piping, this system uses four such foggers mounted in the intake manifold an inch or so from the cylinder head.
This is accomplished by drilling and tapping the intake manifold to accept the fogger's nozzles.
This kit will prove a bit more exhaustive to install since you must find a suitable location for the foggers themsleves as well as to bend the small metal tubing that is used in the kit.
This kit solves the distribution issues, the nozzle placement issues and exploding manifold issues.
These kits typically come with the same amount of solenoids as the wet kit does, just three extra foggers and the steel lines that are designed to feed them. However, you won't typically find jets for anything smaller than 100hp shots. for any hp number less than that, the hole/orifice size needed in the jets would be so small, any teeny-tiny partical would clog up the orifice and starve the engine of either fuel or nitrous. So, 100hp is the minimal amount.
The following picture is of a NX (Nitrous Express) individual port kit. Of course, whether it is an indvidual or single port kit, you'll have pretty much the same amount of solenoids.
The two nitrous solenoids, one large and one small, will both open during nitrous spray but then also both close. This second solenoid adds an extra degree of protection should one of the solenoids leak through.
Leaking through solenoids isn't bad if its fuel. However, if nitrous leaks though, it will make for a bad day.
The long silver fitting on the left, large nitrous solenoid is the filter for the nitrous.
The black and metal piece to the far right mounted on the blue portion is the fuel pressure safety switch (more on this in a moment and how you can't trust it).
The only other thing that makes this kit different than that of the single fogger wet kits are the red and blue anodized pieces with 'NX' on them.
These are the distribution blocks.
For a four cylinder, you'll have four each, an eight cylinder-eight, and so on. Each fitting feeds its own seperate line into the intake manifold.
Don't let the placement of fittings get you worked up. In the end, this stuff you see is in deep storage for a 'one day I'll use it' event. So, I've basically not cared too much about what truly goes where, just that it all stays together and is all there when I need it.
Here is a closeup of the 'part you can't trust'.
This part is the 'fuel pressure safety switch'. It works wonderfully if your fuel pump fails.
It sucks if you over-rev or over-speed your car. Then, the injectors cut fuel but your fuel pump pressure is still at specification, so the switch won't protect you as it still sees good fuel pressure.
In other words, you'll have all the nitrous you want....just no fuel to go with it. This equates to a blown motor.
There are ways around this, and I would install this switch in case you do lose a pump at some point, but in the end it offers up a false sense of security in protecting our engine from 'fuel loss'.
The next pic shows the bag of jets or 'pills' you get.
Note the card.
Although hard to read the number on the jets themselves without a magnifying glass, each jet has a number set on it.
That number is used and both jets are sourced for the desired horsepower and inserted into the distribution fittings on the manifold block by referencing this sheet.
Placement of the foggers, on the DOHC S-series, will more than likely have you mounting the foggers on the underside of the intake manifold at the back of the block. I'll get into mounting the foggers more a bit later.
I will however go ahead and perhaps save you time, money and reading in suggesting you use the NXL's poly line kit, by NX (Nitrous Express) that has recently been released.
As opposed to the steel line kits, the NXL kits use hard plastic, maleable lines that make using hard lines and owning a bending tool a thing of the past. We'll get into the installation of the kit in a bit but simply stated, the individual fogger kit is the SAFEST and most effective kit you can install on your Saturn.
Horsepower committment with this type of setup is steep...due to pill configurations-you're more than likely going to have to go with a minimum of 100hp shots.
What? That will blow my motor!
No. It won't.
It might if you were using a dry manifold kit or a single fogger wet kit at that horsepower level, but since each cylinder is getting the exact charge of nitrous and fuel, directly into each cylinder, with the timing being able to control things a bit more concisely, the chance for lean spots or fuel puddling with the other two kits is eliminated, thus your engine will survive.
Historically, people have ran 100hp shots on their Saturns using this kit for long periods of time.
At this level however, it would be a good idea to use some sort of timing control from MSD igntion. It is available for our cars along with a coil adapter that will give you the correct tach signal to source during the timing control installation.
Keep in mind however, with this system, you'll want to retard timing during nitrous use only. At other times, timing is as it should be- stock.
This type of ignition retard works great with nitrous because typically, one should retard timing 2 degrees for every 50hp nitrous addition. So, in our case, you'd need a total of 4 degrees retard.
Since nitrous should only be engaged at certain rpms and times, you could install the timing control to come 'on line' ONLY when you arm your nitrous system and then of course disengage when you turned it off.
The above pic brings to light the size of NOS' solenoid compared to NX's. Now, I'm not taking sides or pushing one company over another, but hey...look at them. I'm sure NOS has much larger solenoids on their higher, larger horsepower kits but these solenoids from NX are standard on their wet, single fogger kits.
The above pic brings to light the size of NOS' solenoid compared to NX's. Now, I'm not taking sides or pushing one company over another, but hey...look at them. I'm sure NOS has much larger solenoids on their higher, larger horsepower kits but these solenoids from NX are standard on their wet, single fogger kits.
Below is a pic of the individual nozzles mounted using the steel line kit that most send with their kits, outside of Nitrous Express' polyline kits.
This was the setup I was going to go with prior to my first turbo kit being installed back in 1995. The turbo kit drama is for another time, but needless to say, I was adamant this kit would be fine as this was going on stock internals.
With this steel line type of kit, unless you go super exotic, this is pretty much your only point of installation.
The foggers are a 90 degree type sprayer, common in most kits, and require the placement to be perpendicular to the floor of the intake manifold runner itself. Ideally, placement of the fogger should be at the '6 o'clock' position of the intake runner and should be about 1" back from the intake manifold flange. Sealing of the foggers should be done via LOC-TITE sealer or some Teflon paste (not tape).
In our case, on our engines, you'll need to make sure you 'clock' the 1st and 4th cylinder nozzles inward, towards the two center cylinders to avoid any starter clearance issues on the cylinder 4 side, and the alternator shelf on the cylinder 1 side.
The picture above demonstrates this a bit.
It should be noted that unless your engine has forged innards, you'll best want to leave the 100hp power pills in there. Changing these pills out after the fact can prove a bit tedious.
This next pic is similar to the one above, but it's the kit I installed along with the turbo kit on my 1995 Saturn SC2 drag car, before I'd decided to go with the NXL poly line setup.
Here, I decided to go with a bit longer steel lines to enable an easier pill change should I need to during pit stops.
Companies like Nitrous Express decided that the nozzle drilling, tapping, and bending of the steel line kits were out of date and instead came out with a nifty Poly-line kit (below pic).
This kit requires no bending and no drilling/tapping at all. Routing is also simplified.
This kit comes with an insert that goes in between the injector and intake manifold's injector bung which is now the entry point for nitrous and fuel.
Here is a picture of it installed on my 1995 Coupe drag car's motor:
If you use the NXL direct port kit (other kits exist today from other companies) in most cases, you'll have to create a small bracket, at each injector rail connection point to the manifold, to make up for the 1" or so movement rearwards towards the firewall.
You might also have to grind off bit of the intake manifold's 'webbing' away to the right of cylinder number four, but this can be done (since the amount is pretty slight) while the manifold is on the car with a dremel tool or other small grinder.
Make sure to cover the open holes of the missing injectors at the intake (as you'll obviously want to have the fuel rail and injectors out of the way for this) to avoid metal debris entering.
Obviously, if you choose the hard-line type kits, you'll want to remove the intake manifold for drilling and tapping of the manifold for the nozzles. You don't want to get aluminum shavings inside the manifold just waiting for the next engine start up to suck it all into your engine. If you clock the nozzles as shown, you won't have any interference issues at all.
Mount the solenoids where you wish to connect the poly lines to and you're done.
A note on bottle mounting-you'll want to put the valve end facing the front of the car, and level the bottle at about a 45 degree angle.
This is gone over well enough in the installation instructions provided with most the kits. I'm not a big believer in remote mounted open/close valves, but I would invest in a nitrous pressure gauge at the bottle. Optimum pressure would be around 1,000 psi.
I'd also recommend a purge valve kit. Installation of these kits is straight forward by simply following the supplied kits instructions.
By far, on any s-series (except the TBI equipped models due to stock fuel pressure differences to the mpfi engines), this would be the safest type of kit to use.
It would not only offer equal distribution, but also remove any blown up manifold potential and, if using the polyline setup, make a breeze of the actual install itself.
Make sure to use two heat range colder plugs, no matter the type of kit or horsepower amount you go with.
Always use the highest octane gas you can find. It would help to add an octane booster available at most aftermarket parts houses, just to be on the safe side. Today's fuels have additives and ethanols, etc. that might hinder getting a 'true' 93 octane (here in Texas) or elsewhere.
NEVER spray into the redline where the rev limiter will be called in. Engine damage will occur!
NEVER spray into the speed limiter-know where yours is at-engine damage will occur!
NEVER engage nitrous under 3,000 rpms. Particularly if you've got the dinky, stock S-series rods in your car.
I hope this has helped you. If you have any questions, feel free to email me and I'll do my best to help you.